THALAY SAGAR 2003

Area: Gangotri Area (Garhwal)

Height: 6904 m

Team 1: French

Leader: Glairon Rappaz Patrice (3 members)

Summary

The Expedition climbed a new route on the north face of Thalay Sagar. The leader and another member Benouist Stephane climbed the summit in Alpine style in a 10-day push. The summit was reached on 29 th September by the north face.

Team 2: American

Leader: Benjamin Buckley Gilmore with Kevin Bradley and Kevin Mahoney

Summary

The expedition established themselves in late April at the foot of Thalay Sagar wanting to attempt the north face of this difficult mountain. However they had to give up this expedition on 25 th of May after reaching 5900 m. They were stormed off the mountain because of excessive avalanches as they were here in the early part of summer.

Team 3: Korean

Leader: Lee Sang Cho (7 members)

Summary

The expedition established base camp by early September wanting to attempt the north face. The maximum height reached was 6600 m by the leader, Bune Sung Ho and one other member Lee Sang Cho They found very bad weather and poor snow conditions.

Team 4: Dutch

Leader: Malvin Redeker with Mike Van Berkel, Cas Van de Gevel

Summary

A team of three experienced members from Holland climbed Thalay Sagar by the northeast face to the southeast ridge. All the three members made an 11-day push from base camp to summit, from 14 th September to 23 rd September. This was one of the best climbs in the Indian Himalaya this year. They too faced bad weather in the early part on their climb but they waited out the period to make this attempt.

Team 5: Bulgarian

Leader: Nikola Levakov (7 members)

Summary

This Bulgarian team established base camp on 21 st September at 4700 m and attempted the summit via northwest face. Two members reached the summit on 12 th October 2003. The summiteers were leader Nikola Levakov with Hristo Hristov. This was a good strong push of 7 days from base camp to the top. Leader Nikola Levakov suffered severe frostbites and had to be evacuated by air.