Indian Mountaineering Foundation

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Exploring the Evolution of the Ice Axe A Mountaineers Essential Tool By Amit Chowdhury

"Buying an [ice] axe should be the beginning of a long partnership." — Godfrey Francis, Mountain Climbing, 1958 The traditional ice axe boasts a rich history, evolving into two distinct configurations: the high-angle 'ice tool' and the multipurpose mountaineer's 'ice axe.' Each serves unique roles in the mountain environment. As a recreational mountaineer with no serious ice-climbing experience, I believe the traditional, old-style ice axe is the only one necessary. I collect ice axes as a hobby, but this pursuit has become quite expensive thanks to eBay, where everything is labeled an instant 'collectible' by antique dealers. A search for ice axes on eBay reveals a range of these artifacts, both new and old, with older, wood-shafted examples commanding steep prices. Commercial retailers like Michael Chessler of 'Chessler Books' specialize in mountaineering collectibles and books. Chessler arranges for famous mountaineers like Everest's conqueror, Sir Edmund Hillary, to autograph old wood-shafted European ice axes, selling them at high prices. American capitalism has exploited this niche market—buy low, sell high. I even considered selling one of my old ice axes that has a knot resembling the Virgin Mary or Ronald McDonald for no less than $200,000 on eBay. Ice axes have an intriguing history with some notable facts. Ukrainian-born Bolshevik and Marxist theorist Leon Trotsky was assassinated in Mexican exile by a Stalinist agent on January 6, 1925, using a climber's ice axe. The assassin's axe was a standard, wood-shafted climbing axe shortened to about 13 inches, sparking speculation about its possible use in high-angle ice climbing on Mexican volcanoes. Trotsky, an amateur alpinist, had done some climbing while in exile in Mexico. A dedicated mountain enthusiast can detail George Leigh Mallory's impact on climbing, including his final Everest ascent in 1924 with Andrew Irvine, where they disappeared along the Northeast Ridge Route. In 1933, Irvine's ice axe, made by the Brothers Willisch in Taesch below Zermatt, was found high up on their route, leaning against a rock. The Willisch brothers have crafted superior wooden-shafted ice axes for years under the Matterhorn's shadow. During several trips to Zermatt for skiing and climbing, I've collected several of their classic mountaineering tools. Mallory's own Willisch ice axe still lies undiscovered on Everest, waiting to be stumbled upon by a modern climber in the Death Zone that claimed Mallory and Irvine. During World War II, all sides used the ordinary ice axe in alpine battles. German Army mountain troops used recreational climbing axes made by Stubai/Aschenbrenner in the Austrian Tirol, while the U.S. 10th Mountain Division used American-made axes by the Ames Tool Company. Each has unique features making them identifiable. Ice axes are essential for mountaineers, providing support and stability on icy or snowy terrain. They come in various sizes and shapes, designed for different climbing types and terrain. Here’s how to use an ice axe for mountaineering and the types available today. Using an Ice Axe for Mountaineering: Understand the basic parts of an ice axe: the head (with a sharp point or pick and an adze for chopping steps or cutting snow), and the shaft (the handle providing support and leverage). To use an ice axe: <ol> <li>Grip the shaft with both hands, arms close to your body, pick facing inward, adze outward.</li> <li>Place the pick into the ice at a slight angle, resting the adze on the ice surface.</li> <li>Lean your weight onto the pick to anchor it securely.</li> <li>Move forward, using the axe for support and stability, chopping steps with the adze and anchoring with the pick.</li> </ol> For self-arrest techniques, the British Mountaineering Council provides an excellent guide: <a href="https://youtu.be/mLUAxQ6kZJg" rel="noreferrer" target="_new">Self-Arrest Guide</a>. Types of Ice Axes: <ol> <li>General Mountaineering Ice Axe: Versatile, suitable for a range of activities, usually with a straight shaft, slightly curved pick, and adze.</li> <li>Technical Ice Axe: For more technical climbing, like ice and mixed climbing, with a curved shaft and aggressive pick and adze.</li> <li>Ice Tool: Specialized for technical ice climbing, with a curved shaft and aggressive pick, but no adze.</li> <li>Expedition Ice Axe: Longer, for steep slopes and glacier traversing, with a straight shaft, large adze, and long pick.</li> </ol> Industry Standards: Ice axes must meet UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) standards, undergoing rigorous tests for shaft and pick strength, adze strength, torsion, and endurance. Other standards include EN (European Norm) and ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials). Inspect your ice axe regularly for wear and damage, replacing it as necessary to ensure safety. Images and References: For visual references, check manufacturer websites (Black Diamond, Petzl, Grivel), online retailers (REI, Backcountry, Moosejaw), outdoor gear review sites (OutdoorGearLab, Switchback Travel), and mountaineering forums (SummitPost, MountainProject). Accidents and Safety: Ice axes, if not used properly, can cause accidents. Examples include: <ul> <li>Slipping on steep terrain: In 2016, a climber died on Mount Hood after failing to self-arrest.</li> <li>Striking another climber: In 2014, a climber on Mount Rainier was struck in the head by a partner’s ice axe.</li> <li>Breaking components: In 2019, a Canadian Rockies climber died after their ice axe pick broke.</li> </ul> Proper instruction and training on using ice axes and regular equipment inspections are crucial to reducing risks. Historical Evolution: <ul> <li>Walking Stick: Early climbers used walking sticks for stability, not designed for ice or snow.</li> <li>Alpenstock: Mid-19th century, Swiss guides used longer, sturdier walking sticks with metal tips.</li> <li>Piolet: Late 19th century, a specialized tool with a metal head (pick and adze) for cutting steps and self-arresting.</li> <li>Modern Ice Axe: Early 20th century, improved with curved shafts, ergonomic grips, and lighter, more durable materials (aluminum, carbon fiber).</li> </ul> Despite advancements, the basic design remains largely unchanged, a testament to its enduring utility. Famous Climbers: <ul> <li>Tenzing Norgay: Used a traditional wooden-handled piolet on his historic 1953 Everest ascent.</li> <li>Reinhold Messner: Used a lightweight aluminum axe, designed by himself, during his solo 1980 Everest ascent.</li> </ul> Both climbers highlight the importance of using the right ice axe for specific conditions. Using an Ice Axe as an Anchor: <ol> <li>Find a suitable spot with consolidated snow or ice.</li> <li>Clear the area.</li> <li>Hold the axe vertically.</li> <li>Create a T-slot with the adze.</li> <li>Insert the shaft into the T-slot and drive it down.</li> <li>Tie the rope to the shaft below the T-slot.</li> <li>Test the anchor by tugging it.</li> </ol> This technique is useful for belaying, rappelling, or traversing steep terrain, but should only be done by experienced climbers. To preserve the spike’s sharpness, strap the ice axe to your pack when not on snow or ice. Use a sliding circular metal ring with a Nylon strap or a small diameter Nylon rope looped around the wrist and through the adze eye to prevent loss. Lastly, ice axes should never be used as murder weapons. While this might make you infamous in forensic history, it will surely displease mountaineers.

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Unnamed Peak 6751 m First Ascent Southwest Ridge and West Face Ladakh Himalaya

This mountain has been variously been referred to as Kunchang Kangri, Phurdukpo Kangri I, Unnamed Peak I Kungzang and Mandaltang I. Clearly the mountain has no common name.   Our team left Rongdo village on 9th of July  (3200 m) to start the 60 km trek towards the mountain. We trekked three days to base camp (5300 m), making overnight stops in Doksa summer village (4045 m) and Hot Springs (4607 m). BC was established next to the moraine of the Sagtopa glacier (5387 m). Our main  objective was the highest summit in the region referred on the “Ladakh and Zanskar North” map by Olizane as being 6721 m and 6751 m on Indian and US maps.   On July 15th we crossed of the southeast Shukpa Kunchang Glacier and established intermediate camp at 5778 m. The glacier was in good shape, covered with strong snow and snow bridges over crevasses, not providing any particular difficulties. Most porters returned then and we   continued with nine porters, sharing load carry ourselves.   The next day we climbed to the col between SE Shukpa Kunchang Glacier and Phurdukpa Glacier, crossing the col at the point 6041 m. The lowest point of the col was at the 5981 m, but heavily corniced and crevassed from the North side, so we had to climb a bit up and find a suitable point to make a 180m rappel. It was the first known crossing of this col, so we named it “Estonian Col”. Our intention was to fix the col with ropes, so as to ferry food and equipment to ABC from BC. Our intention was to make several climbing and exploratory trips from ABC.   Unfortunately the col appeared too steep and crevassed for our remaining 9 porters to make repeated crossings. In addition, we did not have any spare fixed rope to leave there. Therefore we failed to carry out our initial plan for longer climbing trips and concentrated from there on only to the unclimbed peak 6751 m. On the 19th we moved to the unnamed glacier and, in the worsening weather, established intermediate camp at 5553 m. The next day, our team moved from the glacier to the mountain itself and, next to the rock island, we set up 2nd camp at 5935.53 m. On the 21th we established high camp on the SW ridge at the 6298 m. On the morning of July 22nd the weather was not very promising. It started with snowfall so we had to postpone summit attempt from 2 AM to 4 AM. At 4 AM it was still snowing lightly and winds were noticeable, but we climbed first snow slopes on firm snow. There was an ice step, about 30 meters high (grade WI 3), before entering the couloir leading to under the summit pyramid.   The summit pyramid itself consisted manly of loose rocks and we took utmost care not to drop any stones onto each other heads. Summit was a short knife-edge snow ridge at the height 6801 m.  Due to continuously cloudy weather and snowfall, return to the Rongdo valley was more dangerous. Snow-bridges on SE Shukpa Kunchang glacier were softer and Passang Temba Bhutia who was rope- leader on glacier took about five falls into the crevasses.   We measured mountain true height to be 6801 m and this will make it the world's 294th highest mountain, with prominence over 500 meters, and 1041 meters instead of 991 meters. - Kristjan Erik Suurvali

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Lalana Peak 6265 m Lahaul Himachal Pradesh

In August 2018, I led our team’s expedition to Mt. Lalana (6265 m), situated to the west of Bara Shigri Glacier, in the Lahaul region of Himachal Pradesh. If you start from Batal, Mt. Lalana is the first peak to the right of Bara Shigri Glacier. This peak was first successfully climbed by an all women Bengali team in 1970 and they named it as Lalana, a Bengali word meaning Woman. We reached Manali on 11th August, where our friends joined us. On 13th we took the long trek to Batal, full of hazards. Lalana becomes visible on the way from Manali to Batal. Next day we moved to occupy Base Camp (3919 m), crossing Karcha Nala en route. Nowadays there is a wire on Karcha Nala, making it a simple crossing. It was a beautiful Camp Site with a small lake. On 15th August, the Independence Day, we began our load ferries. Our target area was the snout of the Glacier. We trekked along the true right bank of the Nala. At first it was a normal boulder zone, but very soon we had to traverse high gradient boulder zones, and had to be very cautious. We reached at top of the snout, but could neither find any proper place for a campsite nor water. Then we came down to the river bed. And here we pitched a tent, though it was not a proper place for Camp. From here we got a chance for a closer look at Mt. Lalana. Temperature was around 5-7 degrees. Next day we took rest. On 17th, nine members of the team started out to occupy Camp-I, with myself and another member staying back to maintain the Base Camp. At noon they reached Camp-I (3978 m), almost to the top of the snout point. Mohar and Pitambar returned in the evening with the news that it would take almost 8 hrs. to reach Camp-II, and another 15 hrs of hard ice fall climbing to the Summit Camp,  there being a lot of crevasses in the route. Next day it was quite bad weather, however we started out to occupy Camp ll, climbing through a steep boulder zone. A stream from Lalana Glacier meets Sigri glacier. We climbed through the true left of that stream. It was almost 70 degrees gradient, with some rock fall zones. We crossed the boulder zone and entered into the Glacier, finding it fully crevasse zone. Big crevasses divided the whole glacier. At 1.20 PM we reached and occupied Camp-II (4380 m), on hard glacier. It was raining with strong winds blowing. On a recce of the hanging glacier, we found it was all crevasse zone with about 70-80 degree gradient. Early next morning, the weather was clear. Three climbers started out for route opening through the Ice Fall. Crevasses were everywhere and seracs were breaking off on both sides. They had stop and start several times, trying to search for possible routes. After 3 hours of trying to open the route through the Ice Fall, the climbers reached a dead end, with a long rock wall to their left and a stream to their right. They had to turn back from 4645m, failing to find any possible route upward, which was truly heartbreaking for all of us. Lalana peak is a tough climb, with multiple crevasses all along, requiring a long programme for route finding and rope fixing, and a large quantity of equipment. We descended back to Base Camp, determined to plan another expedition to this majestic peak and repeat the feat of that first formidable team of women.     - Indranil Kumar  

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Trans Himachal 2018 Peter Van Geit

<div>Trans Himachal 2018 Himachal Pradesh Himalaya</div> <div>Peter Van Geit gives a fascinating photo-illustrative account of his explorations in the remote regions of Himachal Pradesh. He and a team-mate trekked across 40 high altitude Passes.</div> <div>A 75 days/1500 kms alpine-style journey across 40 high altitude passes in Spiti, Pangi, Chamba, Kinnaur, Shimla and Kangra districts of Himachal and Zanskar during summer 2018. Minimalist, selfsupported, partly running and mostly solo exploration of many lesser known passes, many only used by shepherds including Chobia, Chaini, Kugti, Pratap Jot, Thamsar, Kaliheni, Lar La, Padang La and Buran to name a few. Jumping districts and valleys across the Pir Panjal, Dauladhar and Baspa ranges traversing 1500km through picturesque valleys.Several weeks went into planning the route, analyzing maps including OSM (Open Street Maps), SOI (Survey of India), Google Earth, Olizane and various reference blogs. Credit goes to Sathya Narayanan who inspired me through his solo trekking explorations and wonderful blog before he went missing last August and my close friend Maniraj who identified many trails. Navigation (and photography) was done with my OnePlus 6 mobile and offline OpenTopoMaps. A total elevation gain of 2+ lakh meters was achieved, with 7 passes above 5000 meters and 21 passes above 4000 meters. Being an ultra runner and minimalist (carried only 6 kg luggage), most of the pass crossings were done in just 1-2 days after initial acclimatization, covering 30-40 kms every day, traveling on HPRTC buses in between sections. The journey took us through colourful alpine meadows, high altitude desert, vast glaciers, wild stream crossings, huge moraines, steep landslide-prone valley slopes, a few technical climbs and wilderness navigation near a few unused trails. We camped overnight in tents but many times stayed in shelters with shepherds and mountain tribes, and in many welcoming homes at remote, hospitable villages. Food was kept basic / minimal with no cooking to reduce weight. No technical gears were carried except for a pair of hiking poles. The journey was one of stunning natural beauty, hospitality beyond words and overwhelming vastness of remote out-of-this-world landscapes. We indulged in lip smacking local cuisine, encountered hikers and wildlife in the remotest corners of the Himalayas, listened to beautiful music on local instruments. More details on the passes, route, preparation, photos and videos of my journey can be found at ultrajourneys.org</div> <div> </div> <img class="float-left" src="https://res.cloudinary.com/indian-mountaineering-foundation/image/upload/v1563811456/Trans1_d4ns1k.png" /> <img class="float-right" src="https://res.cloudinary.com/indian-mountaineering-foundation/image/upload/v1563811457/Trans2_xapg0p.png" /> <img class="float-left" src="https://res.cloudinary.com/indian-mountaineering-foundation/image/upload/v1563811456/Trans3_e82y3d.png" /> <img class="float-right" src="https://res.cloudinary.com/indian-mountaineering-foundation/image/upload/v1563811456/Trans4_tefpur.png" /> <img class="float-left" src="https://res.cloudinary.com/indian-mountaineering-foundation/image/upload/v1563811456/Trans5_lmc4pn.png" /> <img class="float-right" src="https://res.cloudinary.com/indian-mountaineering-foundation/image/upload/v1563811456/Trans6_ruujfh.png" /> <img class="float-left" src="https://res.cloudinary.com/indian-mountaineering-foundation/image/upload/v1563811457/Trans7_djo175.png" /> <img class="float-right" src="https://res.cloudinary.com/indian-mountaineering-foundation/image/upload/v1563811457/Trans7_djo175.png" /> <img class="float-left" src="https://res.cloudinary.com/indian-mountaineering-foundation/image/upload/v1563811457/Trans9_nb4erl.png" /> <img class="float-right" src="https://res.cloudinary.com/indian-mountaineering-foundation/image/upload/v1563811457/Trans10_wpld4i.png" />

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IMF MOUNTAIN OUTDOOR COVID 19 ADVISORY

IMF Health Advisory, addressing the issue of outdoors travel in the context of raging COVID19 pandemic by Dr  Anil Gurtoo :- A) The Issue:   As we watch the COVID story unfold in most unpredictable twists and turns, the question upper most in our minds is this:         What does it all mean to my mountain travel and activity plans for the coming season? To Go ? Or, Not to Go? That is the Question. B) Thinking Through: Making a Decision:     1) When confronting a situation marked by :   Uncertainty and Rapid Change, I would   adopt a Risk Based Approach .     2) I would ask the following 3 Questions: If I were to go out to mountains then:     a)What all can go wrong? The full  spectrum of all that can go wrong.     b)What is the Likelihood of it happening?   The probabilities for each adverse event.     c)What will be the consequences should it   materialise?     For example,if I catch COVID infection on the way, or from my team mate,  I am more likely to suffer serious outcomes due to high altitude induced immunosuppression / I could infect the whole team and become stranded without any medical aid or possibility of rescue / I or my team could pass on the infection to already vulnerable mountain communities or the porters and trigger an epidemic in an already under resourced area.      The Likelihood of such a scenario materialising is pretty high at 60% or more. The Consequences would be truly tragic. C) Based on answers you generate to those 3 aforementioned Questions, you create  a Risk Level and then integrate it with following variables :-     1) The Risk Level.     2) Your Age and Pre-existing Medical Conditions ( risk of adverse outcomes increases with age and especially, if one has health issues like :  Diabetes, Hypertension, Heart disease,   Chronic Lung Disease, kidney or liver  disease.)      3) Essentiality of your Travel.     So, given what we know as on 22nd March, 2020, I would recommend the following :-     1) Avoid All Non-Essential Mountain Travel and Activities for the next THREE months.     2) Reschedule all present plans to beyond a 3 month timeline.Keep tracking the evolving situation.           Be ready to for a No-Go should  the situation again deteriorate after 3 months.

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IMF Webinar Series

The Indian Mountaineering Foundation presents its ongoing Webinar series on Mountaineering and the Indian Himalaya. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SyIRs9dhzSg&feature=youtu.be">1. Top Five Voulunteering Films - Maninder Kohli <Click Here to View></a> <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SyIRs9dhzSg&feature=youtu.be" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://res.cloudinary.com/indian-mountaineering-foundation/image/upload/v1586868085/SharedScreenshot_f7wowe.jpg" /></a>  

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UIAA International Mountaineering and Sports Training Course

A Report by Amit Chowdhury, Member IMF and VP UIAA Introduction From April 19th to 21st, 2024, the International Mountaineering and Sports Training Course, hosted by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) in collaboration with the Federación Argentina de Ski y Andinismo (FASA), took place in Bariloche, Argentina. This event coincided with the UIAA Executive Committee and Management Board meetings, creating a comprehensive platform for learning and collaboration in mountain sports. Participants explored a diverse array of topics including mountain medicine, techniques, and safety. Lectures covered crucial subjects such as water management, altitude illnesses, hypothermia, frostbite, and gender differences at high altitudes. Experts shared insights and best practices, fostering a rich exchange of knowledge and experiences. Panel discussions addressed issues like responsible climbing, training curricula, and the impacts of climate change on mountain ecosystems. Sessions on modern rescue gear and comparative analysis of rescue operations provided a comprehensive understanding of contemporary challenges and solutions in mountain sports. Hands-on workshops allowed participants to apply their knowledge in real-world scenarios. Esteemed international experts led these workshops, offering invaluable opportunities for skill development and experiential learning. Day One The course was guided by Urs Hefti, President of the UIAA Medical Commission; Martin Lascano, member of the UIAA Executive Committee; Mijel Lofti, UIAA Medical Commission representative and IFMGA Mountain Guide for FASA; and Marcelo Parada, Medical Director of FASA. Day 1 began with welcomes from Peter Muir, President of UIAA, and Magdalena Kast, President of FASA. Urs Hefti outlined the course agenda. The first session on environmental concerns featured discussions on wastewater and responsible climbing. Steve Long elaborated on training standards, and Federico Campos discussed anchor safety standards. Sessions on climbing in cold conditions included discussions on hypothermia, frostbite, and protective clothing. Altitude-related concerns in sport climbing were addressed by Eduardo Vinhaes, Antonio Nicolau Villages, and Matthias Hilty. The final session covered gender differences at altitude and advanced first aid in mountain areas. The day ended with a panel discussion on modern technology in climbing, featuring Steve Long, Fred Campos, Luigi Festi, and Craig Ross. Day Two Day 2 focused on workshops, beginning with rescue operations in Argentina. Marcelo Parada, Dra. Carolina Codó, Mijel Lofti, and Fran Velazquez highlighted rescue strategies in various mountain regions. Participants then split into rotating workshops covering topics like water treatment, portable altitude chambers, anchor safety, stretcher rescue, and knots and pulleys. The day concluded with closing remarks from Marcelo Parada and a celebratory dinner. Day Three Day 3 emphasized practical application through a rescue simulation at Cerro Catedral, led by CAX Bariloche. Participants experienced hands-on rescue operations and gathered for a debrief session. Certificates were distributed by the UIAA Office, with closing remarks from Peter Muir, Urs Hefti, and Magdalena Kast. The day ended with a closing lunch or dinner. Detailed Coverage from Some Lectures High Altitude Pulmonary Oedema Representatives from the Swiss Alpine Club discussed high-altitude physiology, focusing on adaptation and risks above 2000 meters. They covered high altitude illnesses like AMS and HAPE, highlighting symptoms, diagnosis, and treatment. Preventive measures like acetazolamide use and careful ascent rates were emphasized. The importance of tailored medical support and informed decision-making during expeditions was underscored. Acute Mountain Sickness The session addressed physical and genetic processes impacting outcomes, with emphasis on accurate diagnosis and treatment. It highlighted metabolic differences, symptoms like nausea, and the role of controllers in managing conditions. The importance of understanding various factors influencing outcomes was reiterated. Frostbite Kaste Mateikaite's lecture on frostbite stressed prevention and early recognition. Risk factors include cold conditions, altitude, and individual susceptibility. Preventive measures involve proper clothing, weather awareness, and good hygiene. Treatment recommendations include assessing for hypothermia, gradual rewarming, and medical attention for severe injuries. Hypothermia The session covered temperature regulation, stages of hypothermia, prevention, and treatment. Practical recommendations for managing hypothermia in the field and challenges in specific regions were discussed. The importance of timely intervention strategies based on the stage of hypothermia was emphasized. Climate Change The impact of climate change on mountain guiding was discussed, with safety concerns due to high temperatures causing route changes. Legal implications of outdated guidebook information were raised. Collaborative efforts in Canada for environmental conservation were highlighted. The session underscored the need for updated safety protocols and personal accountability when using guidebooks. Conclusion The International Mountaineering and Sports Training Course provided valuable insights into mountain sports, emphasizing knowledge exchange, skill development, and practical applications. The event fostered collaboration among participants and highlighted the importance of adapting to contemporary challenges in mountain environments.

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Welcome to new Online Portal of Indian Mountaineering Foundation

Steps to Apply for an Expedition

Articles

Exploring the Evolution of the Ice Axe A Mountaineers Essential Tool By Amit Chowdhury

Unnamed Peak 6751 m First Ascent Southwest Ridge and West Face Ladakh Himalaya

Lalana Peak 6265 m Lahaul Himachal Pradesh

Trans Himachal 2018 Peter Van Geit

IMF MOUNTAIN OUTDOOR COVID 19 ADVISORY

IMF Webinar Series

UIAA International Mountaineering and Sports Training Course