PAPSURA 2005

PAPSURA 2005

Area:Kinnaur - Kullu Valley, Himachal Pradesh

Height:6451 m

Team 1:Indian (The Himalayan Club, Kolkatta section) expedition

Team Size:11

Leader:A.V.M A K Bhattacharyya (Retd.)

Period:September to October

Result:Unsuccessful

Summary

The team from Kolkatta attempted this peak, known as 'Peak of Devil'. Base camp was established on 12th September in poor weather, after trekking from Manali. To compensate for days lost due to bad weather, they decided to alter the route from the SE ridge to the SW ridge.

Two camps were established at 4720 m, 5030 m and 5485 m. The final summit camp was set up at 5790 m. This rapid movement was possible due to the three clear days and also because of the fitness of the young members.

On 22nd September, in cloudy weather conditions, the five climbers attempted the summit. After a rigorous and difficult climb of more than 8 hrs, when the summit was visible within around 40 metres, the weather closed and there was a white-out condition all around. After waiting for some time , the team decided to withdraw from the mountain and returned to the summit camp late in the evening.

Team 1:Indian (IMF) expedition

Team Size:9 (ladies team)

Leader:Ms. Vinita Verma

Period:September to October

Result:Successful

Summary

A ladies team consisting of various climbers from all over India climbed Papsura at head of the Tos nala. The summit was reached on 4th October via the normal route by 7 climbers: leader with Ms. Santa Devi, Bandana Gurung, Lovely Das, Malabi Das, N. Ayingbi and Savita Bodh.

After a log day of climbing, Ms Malabi Das from Kolkatta was very exhausted. She barely managed to reach the last camp and finally died of exhaustion. She was an experienced and enthusiastic mountaineer having climbed Sudarshan Parvat and Chhamaser Kangri – both peaks higher then Papsura.